A Few Notes on Preparing for Overshot-Patterned Doubleweave Projects
Viewing the Cloth in Weave Design Software
When using the View function or Cloth Simulation, the front and back will not look exactly like they'll look when the cloth is woven. When alternating colors in the warp, you'll find that the "design line" is in a different color on the front and back. Currently no software that we know of correctly renders double weave images. We are working on including this capability in TempoWeave.
Weaving Overshot-Patterned Double Weave on a Table Loom
If you are weaving on a table loom, there's no need to go to the extra step required to use a skeleton tie-up. Go ahead and generate for the 8-shafts, then convert to a lift plan.
Sinking vs Rising Shed Looms
Weaving on a sinking shed loom? Where we referred to the bottom layer, the top layer will be woven and visa-versa. Basically it's no problem whether you are using a sinking or rising shed loom, tie them up the same.
Section Assembly File for this Project
If you'd like to weave your own project with the Star of Bethlehem draft, you may want to resize this draft. For your convenience, we've included a Section Assembly file that you can use to repeat the body as often as needed, and apply the left and right borders for the warp.
Sett for Overshot-Patterned Doubleweave
Sett usually needs to be about double the sett as for plain weave with the same yarn. I have found that I use a slightly loose plain weave sett and double it for this technique. As always, sampling is recommended!
Tubular Hems
One popular project type for this technique is table mats and runners. Since the double woven fabric is thick, it's very easy to weave a tube for the hem, instead of a tri-fold hem at the ends.
The hem on the 8-shaft tieup used in this tutorial alternates plain weave on shafts 1 and 2 for the top layer, and 3 and 4 for the bottom layer (with shaft 1 and 2 up and out of the way) with the treadling as shown below. Weave the tube to the desired length, using one shuttle. The resulting fabric will have somewhat random striped look due to the threading colors. Weave a tube long enough to turn the raw edges in, press, and hand or machine stitch the edges closed.
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